The best things to do in Seoul

1.Gyeongbokgung Palace

The largest of Seoul's five royal palaces, founded in 1395, with the mountains of Bukhansan behind it.

Tip: Entry is free if you wear hanbok, and you can rent one nearby. The palace is closed on Tuesdays.

2.Changdeokgung and the Secret Garden

A UNESCO-listed palace that follows the hills, with a wooded rear garden of ponds and pavilions.

Tip: The Secret Garden can only be seen on a guided tour with limited places; book ahead. Closed on Mondays.

3.Bukchon Hanok VillageFree

Hillside lanes of traditional wooden hanok houses between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung.

Tip: People live here. The busiest lanes now have set visiting hours for tourists; keep your voice down.

4.InsadongFree

A street of tea houses, galleries and craft shops, with the spiral Ssamziegil building at its centre.

Tip: Look down the side alleys for traditional tea houses away from the main street.

5.Gwangjang Market

One of Seoul's oldest markets, famous for its food alley of mung-bean pancakes, mayak gimbap and raw beef.

Tip: Sit at a busy stall counter and point; most stalls have picture menus.

6.Ikseon-dongFree

A tight cluster of 1920s hanok houses turned into cafés, bakeries and small restaurants, near Jongno 3-ga station.

Tip: The alleys are tiny and fill up fast at weekends; go on a weekday afternoon.

7.Cheonggyecheon StreamFree

A restored stream running below street level through the city centre, with a walking path and lights at night.

8.Deoksugung and the guard ceremony

A small palace in the city centre, mixing traditional halls with Western stone buildings.

Tip: The royal guard changing ceremony is held at the Daehanmun gate several times a day, except Mondays.

9.Myeongdong street food and shoppingFree

A grid of streets full of Korean cosmetics shops by day and food stalls in the evening.

Tip: The food stalls set up from late afternoon; come hungry around 6pm.

10.N Seoul Tower

The tower on top of Namsan mountain, with the best view of the city and its love-lock terraces.

Tip: Walk up the trail from Myeongdong or take the cable car, then come down after dark for the lights.

11.Namdaemun MarketFree

Seoul's largest traditional market, with thousands of shops selling clothes, kitchenware and street food.

Tip: Many shops close on Sundays.

12.Dongdaemun Design PlazaFree

Zaha Hadid's curving silver building, with exhibitions inside and LED roses lit on its lawn at night.

13.The Seoul City Wall at Naksan ParkFree

A walk along the old city wall from the Dongdaemun gate up to Naksan Park, with views over the city at sunset.

14.HongdaeFree

The university district, with buskers and dance crews on the streets, indie clubs and late-night bars.

Tip: Friday and Saturday nights are when the street performers and crowds are out.

15.Chimaek by the Han RiverFree

Fried chicken and beer on the grass of a riverside park, a Seoul summer evening ritual.

Tip: Mangwon and Yeouido parks are the closest to Hongdae; you can order chicken delivered to the park.

16.The National Museum of KoreaFree

Korea's national museum, in Yongsan, with gold crowns, celadon pottery and a large stone pagoda inside.

Tip: The permanent galleries are free.

17.Starfield LibraryFree

Two-storey bookshelves in the middle of the COEX Mall, one of Seoul's most photographed interiors.

18.Bongeunsa TempleFree

A Buddhist temple founded over 1,200 years ago, with a tall standing Buddha, opposite COEX.

Tip: The temple runs templestay programmes, from a few hours to an overnight stay.

19.Lotte World Tower

Korea's tallest building, at 555 metres, with the Seoul Sky observation deck and a glass floor near the top.

Tip: Go on a clear day around sunset; the deck is open until late evening.

20.The DMZ

The border zone between North and South Korea, about an hour north of Seoul, visited on organised tours.

Tip: Take your passport. Which sites are open changes with the political situation, so check before booking.