Mong Kok & Yau Ma Tei

Mong Kok is one of the most densely packed places on earth: specialised streets for goldfish, flowers, birds, sneakers and electronics, and the Ladies' Market every evening. Yau Ma Tei, just south, has the Temple Street Night Market, the Tin Hau Temple and old fruit market, and the jade market.

It's the real, crowded, neon-lit Hong Kong, with cheap eats on every corner and rooms that cost far less than on the island. Hotels are small and the streets are loud and packed, but the MTR runs under Nathan Road to Tsim Sha Tsui and Central.