Is Amed a good place to stay in Bali?

Amed is a good base if you want peace, snorkelling and a slower side of Bali. Its fishing villages, from Jemeluk to Selang, have reefs a short swim from the beach, the USAT Liberty wreck at Tulamben is a short drive north, and the Tirta Gangga water palace is inland. It suits divers, snorkellers, couples and budget travellers who don't mind the long drive.

The coast is dry, rugged and beautiful, with small bays of black sand lined with brightly painted jukung boats and Mount Agung rising behind. Jemeluk Bay has a viewpoint and coral gardens close to shore, Banyuning has a small Japanese shipwreck in shallow water, and the road between the villages climbs over headlands with views along the coast. Places to stay are mostly small hotels, bungalows and dive lodges.

The downside is that Amed is far from everything else in Bali. The drive from the airport is long, the beaches are pebbly black sand rather than soft white sand, and there's little to do in the evenings beyond dinner by the sea. You'll need a driver or a scooter to move between the villages.

What makes Amed special is the feeling of a Bali that hasn't changed much. You can step off the beach onto a coral reef, watch the fishing boats come in at sunrise with Mount Agung behind them and pay very little for a room by the sea.