Is Nusa Penida a good place to stay in Bali?

Nusa Penida is a good base if you want to see its famous cliffs and beaches properly rather than in a rushed day trip from Bali. Fast boats from Sanur land on the north coast, where most hotels sit along the road between Toyapakeh and Ped, and drivers can take you to Kelingking Beach, Broken Beach and Diamond Beach. It suits adventurous couples, photographers, divers and budget travellers.

The island feels a world away from Bali's busy south. It's dry and hilly, with small villages, temples and seaweed farms along the coast, and the scenery is spectacular: Kelingking's headland drops to a white beach far below, Broken Beach is a sea arch around a round lagoon, and Angel's Billabong is a rock pool on the cliffs. Snorkelling and diving boats go out to Manta Point and Crystal Bay.

The downside is that getting around is hard work. Roads are narrow, steep and often rough, the main viewpoints are far apart, and the paths down to the beaches are steep and tiring. Restaurants and nightlife are limited, the crossing from Sanur can be choppy, and the famous spots are crowded when the day-trippers arrive.

What makes Nusa Penida worth considering is the chance to see one of Indonesia's most dramatic coastlines at its quietest. Staying on the island lets you reach the viewpoints before or after the day boats, swim with manta rays and fall asleep somewhere far wilder than the rest of Bali, often for very little money.