Is Sintra a good place to stay in Lisbon?

Sintra is a good base if you want to explore the palaces properly and see Lisbon as a day trip. Trains run straight to Rossio, and the Pena Palace, the Moorish Castle and Quinta da Regaleira are all close. It suits couples, families and anyone who prefers forests and fairy-tale palaces to city streets.

The area is green and romantic. The old town has cobbled lanes, tile shops and cafés selling travesseiros and queijadas, the local pastries, and walking paths lead up through the forest to the Moorish Castle. Monserrate's gardens and the wild coast at Cabo da Roca are a short drive away.

The downside is distance and crowds. Lisbon is a long train ride away, the hills are steep, and the old town fills with day-trippers from late morning. Evenings are very quiet, the weather is often cooler and mistier than in the city, and many hotels are small guest houses.

What makes Sintra special is having the palaces almost to yourself. You can reach Pena before the tour buses, wander Quinta da Regaleira in the afternoon light and stroll the old town after the crowds have gone, from a guest house that often costs less than a hotel in Lisbon.